When The New York Times food czar Pete Wells deemed Bangkok Supper Club a much-coveted “Critic’s Pick” recently, he shined a spotlight on what we already knew. It’s good. Really, really good. The restaurant was designed by Bangkok-based firm Taste Space, which used only Thai materials in the interiors, even the paint. The food is just as authentic.

Tucked away on Hudson Street, the 60-seat bolthole champions charcoal-grilled dishes you might find in Bangkok itself—albeit served in a more made-for-photography fashion, Chef Max Wittawat having appeared on Iron Chef stateside and in Thailand and Japan.

There’s beef tongue brined in galangal and lemongrass for more than 24 hours, charred and served alongside Tamarind Jaew sauce and toasted rice powder. The octopus, too, is slow-cooked over charcoal and arrives with pickled garlic sauce. Don’t forget to order a Smokey Milk cocktail (sake, gin, fermented rambutan, clarified milk, and pear cordial) for a palate cleanser.

Below, three more standout dishes to try.